Noticed that my new cars a bit smelly when doing slightly longer journeys and noticed the o/s rear wheel/hib/caliper etc is a lot hotter than the n/s

The AA guy came out and confirmed that the brake is binding a little but he couldn't see anything obviously wrong.

Given that its due the 90k service where they replace the brake cables should I just buy a new caliper as it will cost naif all to fit it or take a chance that new seals and a rebuild will fix it but only be marginally cheaper?

Who's the manufacturer of the OEM rear calipers and best place to get them?

Many thanks

Is it the disc pads binding or could it be brake shoe for parking brake maybe 

Supporting the London Air Ambulance with my Brothers

Disks looks a little blue so I'd be inclined to go with the AA dudes conclusion

Anyone know where to get OEM replacement? What manufacturer or if new seals would be better?

^^^ - Drop Steve (site sponsor) a PM, from threads I've seen on here, seems very competitive for all things
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/member-boringoldgit.html ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

I would just go for a complete stripdown and clean and check the disk for run-out caused by overheating as a first option as it costs nothing and usually solves the problem. The rear calipers are cheap and nasty single piston sliding pins type which have a propensity to partially seize.

You would think that a premium priced 2.7 ton SUV would at least have decent billet calipers all round but oh no not LR  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

So just unbolt and swing the caliper round, get some break cleaner and a tooth brush in around the piston?

Check the disk for runout? Could you explain that a little?

I have just enough tools and slightly too little experience

Dannut - sorry that's one of the problems with forums; you don't know whether the OP is master mechanic or doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other

Use Bodsy's brake bible for expert guidance on unbolting the caliper and taking out the pads. Then take it a step further by clamping off the flexible brake hose and disconnecting the caliper so you can get it on the bench. Then do the complete strip down including removing the piston (you might need to use an airline to blow it out if it won't wiggle out easily). Clean up the cylinder bore and the piston if they have surface corrosion. Don't damage the piston seal. If you can get an overhaul kit then use the new seals but I don't know if these are available. The most likely seizing culprits are the sliding pins that connect the two parts of the caliper (you'll see what I mean when you take it apart). These will need cleaning and lubricating very sparingly with red brake grease.

If you can't feel judder when you brake then the disc is probably OK.
If in doubt You should check the disc for run out using a dial gauge but as most of us don't have one of these standing something solid on the floor and just touching the brake disc outer surface at the edge whilst you spin the disc can give you a pretty good idea. The tolerance is just a few thou so anything more than the tiniest variation as you spin the disc is bad news.

Reassemble the caliper (lubricating the piston seal with fresh brake fluid) re-install it then bleed just that corner (see Bodsy's brake bible).

This of course all assumes that your problem is the caliper and not the handbrake shoes which operate on the inside of the disc. These can give trouble so it might be best to pull off the disc and give these the strip and clean treatment as well. Again Bodsy's Bible will give you all the guidance you need.

Hope this helps.  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE