DPFs/SCRF’s need to run hotter than exhausts to be efficient.

The problems arise on some LR models is due to the designers demands on the overall car layout (mainly “the Cravat”) which resulted in architectural and layout differences which does not allow the DPF/SCRF to be close enough to the hottest part of the exhaust, the manifold, to work efficiently.

Coupled with this it has also emerged that LR have fitted faulty parts on the Discovery Sport which they have tried to cover up by blaming driving style. The faulty parts are not easy to identify without a complete strip down of the exhaust system, something that they are not prepared to entertain.

There’s a lot more information on the Discovery Sport forum, since those cars have been effected the most, but be aware it is a long read.

Thanks for the replies, what I can infer is that my frequent multiple hour journeys towing an 1800kg caravan on the motorways at 60mph😎 will have actually benefitted the task of keeping the DPF clean.
My next task then, will be to simply suck out 5 litres of oil and replace it, midway between annual services - job done!

Has anyone looked at the implications of all this for petrol engines now that many manufacturers (including JLR) are starting to fit ‘Gasoline Particulate Filters’? My understanding is that petrol engine exhausts run hot enough to avoid the need for the regeneration cycles but I’m still wondering if oil dilution will become a problem on petrol engines too. Current: 2020 P400e HSE Dynamic

Gone: 2016 SDV6 HSE
2012 SDV6 SE

I have been stalking the D5 forum where everyone is talking about the dilution problem. A few have rejected their vehicles and either gone to other JLR products or jumped ship completely.

My L494 is coming up for replacement next year and, at this stage, I am really struggling to justify staying with Land Rover what with their QC record, oil dilution and crankshaft issues.........🤔

Jim

Jim,

QC issues I agree with but have you suffered from oil dilution or crankshaft problems?
My pcp matures next year and I either buy my car at the settlement figure or start a new deal. The value of my car on the contract is £34k so I buy it and take some risk and have a residual value after another 3 years of say £12k or I enter a new contract on £75k ish car and lose £40k over the next 3years. I've had no serious problems with my car so far; what do you guys think is the best way forward?
Tim Tim
RRS sold and replaced with a Skoda Kodiaq after appalling RR Dealer experience and LR inability to supply new cars in any sort of reasonable time frame..

wilf wrote:

The exhaust gas temperature of a diesel engine directly correlates with load.

DPFs are designed to passively regenerate when exhaust gas temperatures are high enough, i.e. when the engine is working hard enough.

This is very simple. Which bit of this basic thermodynamic stuff do you need a further expert on?

And adblue injection also correlates with load (i.e. volume of exhaust gas in which to reduce nitrous oxide emissions), so drive it hard, and you will use more adblue.

JLR say that running at >40mph for 20 minutes is enough, but frankly, I doubt that EGTs get high enough to "light off" the DPF at that low a load.

In my RRS, I did >20k miles pa, mainly on motorways or A roads, and it still had issues, never crept around city centres in it. My wife does the opposite in her Ewok for <5k miles pa and hasn't had a problem (but there again that has the older Ford diesel in it).

So the true answer is - there isn't an answer I am afraid. The who9le thing is a nightmare, as many people are discovering to their cost. The only way to know for sure would be to monitor EGTs.

I won't ever have another diesel, petrol is my future. MY2016 HSE D SDV6 - gone due to fuel dilution problems.

By the age of 50 you have the face you deserve - George Orwell.

Wilf I fear that you might be too late to avoid a GPF in a petrol engined car. I’m having a problem with finding out if my Countryman does or does have one because I want to get a top up pack of engine oil. The 3 cylinder petrol engine in the PHEV is a new engine for BMW/Mini and there are different oils for GPF engines and non-GPF engines and my build spec doesn’t show if it has or hasn’t got one ............ and Mini din’t Have a useful website like JLR where you can key in you VIN and find out your car’s full spec. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

hello all

I was a "shadow" reader in this thread because I am interested in this topic
I own a SDV6 MY16 since February 2018 and I am very happy with it. My daily driving profile is 2x15km (work and back) and on weekends between 30-50km per way. sometimes longer, sometimes no drive-outs.
four times a year I drive 1000km one way to my holiday-destination.

before the RRS I owned a BMW 530d MY09 with 235PS which I tuned up to 270PS. I have driven it until it had 180'000km (buyed with 17500km). I never had an issue with oil dilution or problems with the DPF. with the BMW the "better" point was, that you could feel when the regeneration was active (higher revs, lower gear, deeper sound). with the RRS I didn't recognize such indicators until now. Perhaps someone has a tipp?

I normally try to avoid short trips, where the motor doesn't fetch the optimal temperature. I try to use my diesel as it was build for (longer trips)
the 30d/35d BMWs (2003-2010) had the problem, that they didn't had a gauge for temperature. In a hidden menu you could check the temperature. I suppose that the most diesels BMWs are driving with a faulty thermostat and so only fetching 70-75 degrees. the process with my BMW was, that the DPF regeneration started when the temperature reached min. 75 degrees Celcius.

there is one point which I can highly recommend: during my ownership of BMW and now of RRS, I try to fill the fuel tank only with FAME-free ("biodiesel") diesel. I hardly try to fill up at BP oder ARAL (ARAL when I am in Germany). they have a FAME-free diesel called "ultimate diesel". with this diesel you can be sure, that you don't have the "soup" of FAME diesel. that's one important point to avoid oil dilution.

cheers from Switzerland Range Rover Sport HST D350

Last edited by harisson on Sun Nov 25 2018 3:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks harisson - some interesting comments. Welcome to the forum. Current: 2020 P400e HSE Dynamic

Gone: 2016 SDV6 HSE
2012 SDV6 SE

wilf wrote:

My wife does the opposite in her Ewok for <5k miles pa and hasn't had a problem (but there again that has the older Ford diesel in it).
I won't ever have another diesel, petrol is my future.

Doing only 6 miles a day would not do the SDv8 much good, you wouldn’t just get DPF issues, flat batteries would be another problem unless it were on a conditioner every night - maybe you need a PHEV next Andy! 6 miles a day would cost you about 30p in electricity as opposed to about £3 a day in petrol in the S/C 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW