I have recently had a slight knock when driving in a straight
Line over the odd bump etc. Drop links were replaced which appeared to cure the fault but now another slight knock has returned and on removing the sump guard saw this.The sway bar has a shiny bit sticking out slightly like it’s moved. Is this normal as the rest of the parts look black or dirty with age. There is no sign of leaks from the seals and reservoir has not dropped so it baffles me why this would be shinny silver or is this normal. Anti roll bar bushes look fine also.
Photo is in my gallery for some reason.

Last edited by Demaske1 on Sun Nov 11 2018 4:52pm. Edited 1 time in total

When I changed my front ARB pipes I don’t remember seeing any fescalised portion showing. It looks like it’s being pulled out for some reason. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

That’s what I thought but can’t think how ! And it won’t push back in either.

I would expect when it’s all connected up, there’s to much pressure on it to move. Hopefully one of the pro mechanics will give you a much better idea. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

The roll bar is basically a hydraulic ram that expands and contracts in normal usage (it rotates with the expansion and contraction to create the required forces). Yours is fine

Should it have that fescalised portion showing when at rest as I didn’t see that on mine (it was on axle stands). 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

It’s chromed and yes. It co tracts when you lean left and extends when you lean right (or vise versa) so when the vehicle is level the bar will be half way extended.

The ARB doesn’t extend or contract, a piston which is connect to a jack screw, moves longitudinally and it’s motion is converted to a rotational lateral motion via the screw. The section in the photo is the piston. Part of which is external to the outercasing. On older bars, there used to be a boot covering this exposed part, but LR in their wisdom, thought you it would be a better idea to expose this to the elements, grit, salt etc.

Read all about it here... http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...tem%20.pdf

I had looked over that pdf awhile ago, but as you say, I miss interpreted the piston moving internally for a slight contraction/expansion of the arb being converted into the torsional force. But I stand corrected and doth my cap to you

Well after trying to find out what the knock was on my suspension I’ve taken it to Landranger and told me it’s the front bottom arms. Now all I need to do is get the dealer I bought it from less than a month ago to pay for it. Don’t think it will be a cheep job.