Hi All,
Very long story short - Son's 2007 TDV6 cam belt tensioner came away from oil pump resulting in catastrophic engine failure last December. Taken to local indy and £8598.80 later, engine was repaired and fitted with new pump, heads etc and all was fine(if it can be after coughing that amount up on a 11 year old car!).
However, the car was in for nearly 3 months as my son had to raise the funds required and the mot ran out. The Red warning light was on showing suspension fault (car raised and lowered as it should) but unsure as to whether or not the bars were in floppy or locked mode. The indy reported back with the following:

To investigate ARC fault, showing as hydraulic pressure fault, change filter, fluid & clean out reservoir. Check, clean then replace pressure control valve, road test, ok.
Parts used:
Filter
Valve repair kit (Active ARB)
ACE fluid
Bulb

The bill for parts & labour came to £701.21 inc' labour. My son drove it away but days later, the light came back on along with a sudden loss of power (not sure if these were related issues). It was returned to the indy and told to keep until sorted as it was a terrifying experience losing the power especially as the very same happened when engine failed! A few days later, they called to say it was sorted and was a loose connection. I personally picked it up as they were locking up for the weekend. As soon as i started the engine, the light and warning chime happened! Everybody was leaving so i had no choice but to drive home with the warning message 'stop engine now' light on. On the Monday, the Indy told us to just drive it for time being as it didnt appear to be misbehaving until they had time to have a look. My son drove it for a few weeks and then the intercooler blew, and a cv joint went. He also became a dad and wasn't confident that the car was safe enough to drive his new family around and reluctantly purchased a BMW X6. The RRS has sat on my drive whilst i have been fitting new cv and intercooler and renewing all brakes ready to try and recuperate some of the losses. However, i am now stuck with the ACE fault which is beyond my capibilities. I have gone so far as to check the whole system for leaks and found none, and as an afterthought, decided to check the reservoir with the engine running, no fluid movement!!! My brain is a bit fuzzy at the moment trying to digest all this information but after the earlier diagnostic and mechanical work carried out, surely this should have been sorted or at the very least, a reason as to why it has not???
Any observations would be greatly welcome to give me some idea how to approach the garage.

Sorry for dragging it out!

Gary.

The pressure control valve is part of the valve block, and is not a serviceable part

The system can be removed, and replaced with standard bars fairly easily

It sounds a bit odd that this has happened since the engine has been repaired. The mechanical aspects of the system are quite simple, the pump provides the pressure which returns back to the reservoir when not needed, the valve block feeds pressure to the front and rear ARB as required with surplus returned back to the reservoir. I think the valve block defaults to returning fluid to the reservoir when not energised so either the pump isn’t working or the pipe/pipes are blocked or incorrectly routed/fitted. I also don’t think it possible to get an air block before the valve block, only at the ARB which is why the ARBs need bleeding if disturbed. I really don’t know how the garage didn’t pick up on it.

And although I don’t know for sure, I would suspect the engine would be restricted as the ARBs would be no longer functional and no one wants to go around a fast corner with an unexpected role rate! 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Thanks for replies. Apologies for confusion but the Red light was on prior to engine work and reading codes (different garage) came up with pressure fault and lots of communication errors. Was about to go in for further investigation when engine broke!
My own confusion was that if there was a pressure fault before they replaced the parts and then road tested and ok, how comes there is no pressure again now?
Is it worth persevering with garage or would you remove ARB bars and revert to standard ARB'S??? What work is involved and money, parts wise?

Many thanks,

Gary.

If there’s no fluid returning to the reservoir I’d be going back and asking how/why they could/did have done all this work when the pump appears to be not working.

Ever come down the A1 towards Newark? 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I am travelling to Chesterfield everyday for next couple of weeks. What do you have in mind?

Gary.

I’m about 16 miles east of Newark and thought if you were ever passing this way you could drop in and we could take a look. I made a kit earlier in the year to pressurise the system, open the valves in the block and bleed the ARBs. We could also compare to my own as I can definitely see the fluid being pumped back to the reservoir all the time. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Sounds like a plan! Will be in touch soon!

Hi,
Apologies for delay in replying to my own post! Finally got car back together with refurbed wheels & new tyres and took it back to indy. I explained that it went in last december with red light on and came out in late March with red light on. In between these dates, it had the work listed above done and passed the mot after a successful road test.
They agreed to put it on diagnostic tester FOC and it came back with fault code C1119-09 HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FAULT. They tried to 'fool' the car into thinking there was no DSC but it threw loads of other faults.
They couldn't offer me anymore explanation and won't do any more investigation without more wads of cash! Maybe i am wrong, but thought we would get a more positive result for our £700!!!
Can anybody offer any advice as what to try next?

Gary.

Run the engine and look for fluid returning to the reservoir. It should be quite obvious, if not I’d start looking at the pump, pulley and belt etc.

Also look at this

https://jlr.oemdtc.com/147/suspension-warn...over-sport 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Hi,
Yes, there is fluid returning to the reservoir. Think we are going to have to sell with Red light on and take the hit. Cannot throw anymore money at it now. Ridiculous that a 80,000 mile 2007 HSE 2.7 TDV6 can stand us at nearly £35,000 after 16 months of ownership!
Luckily, my own RRS (also 2.7 TDV6) doesn't have the ARC bars but l seriously doubt that i would ever buy a Land Rover product again!

If you have fluid returning then have a read of that link I posted above and see if there’s anything else you can check yourself. I 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Hi Brit! Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Well, the valve block has been removed, stripped, cleaned and service kit fitted. The fluid drained, reservoir cleaned, filter changed, new fluid. No signs of leaks, so that, if i am guessing correctly, leaves only the pump?
That is major money though!
Is there any mileage in removing and replacing with used standard bars? if so, whats involved?

Gary.

Not sure but you may have to lift the body off to swap out the bars.

It could be possible that the garage didn’t bleed the bars and you have trapped air. Also check they reconnected the 2 x electrical connectors on the valve block. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I removed the connectors and refitted them to check (think there were 3 in total). When i was watching the reservoir, i noticed quite a few air bubbles. Is this not normal? If not, how can i bleed the system?