Even with the latest turbos it is still good practise to let them idle for a few minutes after a hard drive, for the same reasons as RRSTdv8 gives - that doesn’t necessarily mean stopped and idling but just not being under load - eg if you have been for a good drive then come home driving through a village or suburbs without wellyingbthe engine at traffic lights etc but being mechanically sympathetic will work,as well.
Something to check when you are looking at cars is to try pressing the the button that operates the transfer box between high and low ratios - even if you never intend to use your car in conditions that might require low box it should still be operated and should work. Wind down the driver’s window and press the button - you should hear a very feint noise as the system transfers between ranges, the light will come on in the dash. Press the button again to go back to high ratios and again it should be almost silent. It isn’t a disaster if it doesn’t work but it could be a sign of improper maintenance by the owner and it is a negotiating point for pricing the car........... it should work so insist on it being demonstrated. BTW don’t drive the car more than a couple of meters on a paved road in low range, best to find a large patch of wet grass before moving the car. All pre 2013 RRS have dual range gearboxes. The repair isn’t hugely expensive but why should you pay for it? 2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - a test car before Seeing if I could go to totally Petrol/Diesel free motoring
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

You should let all turbo cars idle after a run but it's abit more critical on the TDV8's drives the wife nuts sitting there after every run but abit of ear ach is better than 2 turbos  2008 G4 RRSport TDV8 current
2009 TDCi 90 current
2016 Discovery Sport HSE
1994 Dakar current

Thanks again chaps.

Tim - That top tip goes into my check list, thanks. I do frequent fields on a Sunday morning. So a low ratio and tyre grip can fight it out

Camelrock - I kicked the moaning one into touch a decade ago. The new one is much better

Thanks again all

Tim in Scotland wrote:

BTW don’t drive the car more than a couple of meters on a paved road in low range, best to find a large patch of wet grass before moving the car. All pre 2013 RRS have dual range gearboxes. The repair isn’t hugely expensive but why should you pay for it?

Driving in low range on tarmac is fine and won't do any harm. You can change between high and low range on the move perfectly safely too.

The only difference between high and low range in the RRS is the gearing ratio. This is done by changing the route torque takes through the epicyclic in the transfer box by locking /unlocking the ring gear to the housing (if memory serves). No more danger of transmission wind up in low than high range. In normal program on the TR, the centre diff is basically open in high or low range (some preloading occurs in certain circumstances I believe). This is why you can sit there with one wheel spinning merrily away.

Locking of the centre diff is computer controlled and uses a multi plate wet clutch to give variable locking effects and, where necessary, preload. These are not Defenders with old fashioned cogs meshing together to lock the diff. You can still have issues with the RRS e.g. stalling the engine in certain situations off road, but that's rare.

The transfer box is one of the least problematic parts of the RRS (and Disco/FFRR (post-2007)).  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks again RRSTDV8

RRSTDV8 wrote:

The transfer box is one of the least problematic parts of the RRS (and Disco/FFRR (post-2007)).

There is that too Tim. It's a shame that most are driveway queens  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

geoffsnook wrote:

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic49667.html

RRSTDV8 wrote:

There is that too Tim. It's a shame that most are driveway queens

Like your new SDV6 was  Currently driving a Range Rover wannabe whilst I save up!
GONE - SDV6 HSE MY2012 in Orkney Grey.
1993 200Tdi Tdi Range Rover - a proper Rangie!
1949 Series One 80" in family since 1975! Where it all began.....

Supercharged.....you know you want to.....the fuel is a known factor, but no snapping cranks, blown turbos or dodgy injectors. well that was my reasoning anyway.

And there is the small matter of all that power....

Thanks again all.

Hamtheman - A S/C option hasn't been dismissed. I work in Nottingham which is planning to bring in a diesel levy (Basically another stealth tax) so the fuel type may be a consideration.

My present car does 48.6 diesel MPG, according to the dash - and over a long period. Can anyone let me know what the S/C and V8 diesels do to the gallon please?

Commuting is about a third of my annual mileage. I am lucky that I can often alter my work attendance times - so an early/late start/finish. Outside of rush hour, the traffic tends to flow well and my journey is single A roads 60/50/40 MPH and a short stretch of duel carriageway (Nottingham ring road) at 70/50 MPH. I do motorcycle it in the summer and could M/C it more. It is just that I often work across two sites so sometimes the bike clothes mean that it is easier to take the car.

Thank you.

P.S. Loving the site BTW. Loads of horror story's of things going wrong and costing an arm and a leg But I haven't been put off yet .

Remember there are 2 x S/C’s - 3 if you come to 2016MY when the 3.0V6 was added. There is the original 4.2V8 up to 2010MY and from then there is the 5.0V8. With the 4.2 you would be doing really well in commuting to better 17mpg and possibly lower, the 5.0 is a little better. A 4.2 on a long run has been reported as high as 22mpg and some people with the 5.0 have reported consumption in the high 20’s mpg.
For the diesels low to mid 20’s in commuting driving has been reported - where the diesels score is on a longer drive in top gear fully warmed through - the highest consumer I have run was the 2.7TDv6 which gave around 35-38mpg on a long trip driven carefully, but struggled to get 30mpg if belting along. The 3.0SDv6 in my L494 is having a bad day if I don’t see 35mpg in local driving ( I don’t drive in commuter traffic much) on fast A roads and have seen as much as 45mpg on a motorway stretch from Birmingham down to London on the M40. 2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - a test car before Seeing if I could go to totally Petrol/Diesel free motoring
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

DrRob wrote:

RRSTDV8 wrote:

There is that too Tim. It's a shame that most are driveway queens

Like your new SDV6 was

Aim to put that right when I can so it can follow in the footsteps of my TDV8.

You wouldn't recognize it at the moment, Rob. The mucky weather and my using tracks and back roads means it's a bit, um, filthy!

Recent site visit: two ways to the property - "driveway" or "track but you need a 4x4 for that". Guess which one I took. A bit muddy but easy with the AT3s fitted.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I don’t understand why people buy one of the world’s most competent offroad cars and then proceed to rub all the paint off on their driveway or worse, paying a detailer a fortune each month to pamper it, when it would be so much easier and much more fun to take it down a green lane and let the overhanging greenery scratch the paint off for you.......... 2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - a test car before Seeing if I could go to totally Petrol/Diesel free motoring
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Thanks Tim. My commute is either 15 or 21 miles each way with some days a trip of 6 miles between the 2 places I work.

As you your conversation with RRSTDV8, my better half said I would have to keep it clean, so the purchase may be off. The "it gets washed when in rains" excuse is not cutting it with her at the moment